Rocky Mount restaurant is a mob scene, in a good way

September 2024

by Peggy Hyland, Contributing Columnist

Deep in what was known as the “Moonshine Capital of the World” during Prohibition, sits a modern throwback in Rocky Mount, Va. — Anastasia’s Speakeasy.

A small replica barbershop has an old-fashioned vending machine that hides the secret entrance to the speakeasy. Visitors step inside to an environment that is classic in appearance but filled with modern charm. The vintage tin ceiling and flocked wallpaper set the scene, along with plush chairs and couches nestled neatly around small tables. But if you are expecting a 1920s-era menu, be prepared for a pleasant surprise.

Our server was incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. We perused the drink menu, which focuses as heavily and insightfully on non-alcoholic options as it does traditional cocktails. The drink offerings change with the seasons and feature fresh ingredients from local farms.

The Prohibition-era theme doesn’t stop with the décor or the name (a reference to mobster Albert Anastasia). It continues in the menu with dishes such as Mafioso Meatballs, Public Enemy #1 and Bonnie & Clyde’s Last Ride. But it takes more than a clever name to make a great meal: You need great food for today’s palates, and Anastasia’s Speakeasy delivers. I could not resist the baked brie, which featured a stellar combination of fig jam and candied walnuts. The Teflon Don appetizer of seared ahi tuna was nothing short of brilliant, with a firm yet silky texture that reminded us of dry-aged beef. Drizzled with a teriyaki glaze, it was truly inspired.

One sign of a great restaurant is when they pay as much attention to the burger as they do to more  flashy offerings. The Public Enemy #1 was a delectable Wagyu burger with truffle mayonnaise and bourbon-glazed bacon on a brioche bun. Not to be outdone by the burger, the other main entrees exceeded our expectations. The flat iron steak was perfectly seasoned and cooked just right, topped with a rich demiglace. The mashed potatoes were creamy delights. The Lord High Executioner pizza featured a heavenly garlic alfredo sauce and fresh mushrooms. The menu changes to highlight fresh and seasonal ingredients that feature the region’s diverse agricultural offerings.

The dessert menu was small, but we were full already, so we split a delicious chocolate bombe. The chocolate cake dome was filled with a silky, fluffy mousse, covered in a rich ganache, and served with strawberries and whipped cream. We could not stop raving about it.

Anastasia’s Speakeasy is a delicious secret that should be heralded far and wide. Whether you’re in town for a show at The Harvester, shopping at the farmers market, or, like me, willing to drive four hours for a great dinner, Anastasia’s Speakeasy will undoubtedly be a meal to remember.

Got a restaurant for Peggy to review? Let us know at [email protected].