Bay
Watch and Be Wise
Story
by Paula Steers Brown, Contributing Writer
Some simple suggestions for
protecting our watershed.
Joni Mitchell warned back in 1970 of developers who
would pave paradise to �put up a parking lot.� This surreal vision of a
future where citizens will visit a �tree museum� and be charged �$1.50
just to see �em� if society doesn�t change its destructive patterns,
is chillingly prophetic. In our own Chesapeake Bay watershed, for instance,
forests have been cleared at an average rate of over 100 acres every day
between 1985 and 2004.
The bay�s 64,000-square-mile watershed covers all or
parts of six states (Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York,
West Virginia) and the District of Columbia and is home to 16 million
people, projected to be 18 million by 2020. It is those millions of humans
who are impacting the bay�s natural habitats, which include open water,
underground grasses, marshes, wetlands, streams, forests, and the aquatic
reef, causing loss of wildlife and disruption to our entire ecosystem. But
what can we as regular homeowners do in our own yards to help save the bay?
Plenty.
The major cause of water pollution is runoff, the
erosion of soil and pollutants (sediment and chemicals) when water rushes
off the land. A first and vital step that homeowners can take to help the
bay is to do everything possible to stop runoff. The most important step
property owners can take is to limit use of fertilizers and pesticides,
substituting environmentally friendly methods whenever possible that improve
the health of soil and manage pests and disease.
Minimize your need for watering the landscape by
implementing �water-wise� landscaping methods. Plant native trees,
shrubs, and groundcovers that stabilize soil to prevent erosion, filter air
and sediment, and restore the habitat for disappearing wildlife. It is
logical that indigenous plants are best adapted to existing soil and climate
so they need less human help (such as fertilizing, watering, and applying of
pesticides and fungicides) to thrive.
Gary Waugh, public relations manager for the Virginia
Department of Conservation and Recreation (VDCR), advises, �I hear many
people say they are going to spread fertilizer before it rains so it will
�soak in.� More times than not, fertilizer applied before a rain runs
off rather than soaks in. That�s money you�ve wasted and unwanted
nutrients in your streams. Wait until after a soaking rain to apply.�
Because historically present wildlife have become
dependent on native plants for food and
breeding and nesting sites, invasive and non-native plant species can
upset the ecological balance, so avoid them. Natives, however, create
habitats that most closely resemble the historical natural areas of the
Chesapeake watershed. If you are lucky enough to own property next to a
stream, channel or shoreline, encourage riparian forest buffers to stabilize
those waterways with their root mats. They�ll also supply food, cover and
shade for the wildlife.
Regular homeowners: Rethink your lawns! Could you get
by with smaller areas of high-maintenance grass? Labor-intensive lawns are
time bandits for nine months of the year when it comes to mowing, and they
are environmentally costly in terms of watering and maintaining a healthy
and attractive appearance. Determine how much lawn you actually need for
recreation and walkways, then on the rest, go natural. Create appealing
front and backyard island beds, planted with trees, then interplanted
densely (8-10 feet apart) with understory trees, shrubs, and groundcovers
that require minimum maintenance and even help conserve energy. Providing
shade from harsh sun in summer, trees can increase air-conditioner
efficiency by 10 percent, while evergreen and deciduous trees can shield
your house from winter winds to lower heating costs. Their wide root systems
hold 14-16 times more runoff than a mowed lawn.
Trees add privacy, buffer noise, and create a great
backdrop for showy flowers. Establish a butterfly or hummingbird garden, a
water garden, a meadow, or any combination of natural areas to attract
wildlife and reduce maintenance. A water garden attracts birds, frogs,
dragonflies and salamanders, which are interesting to watch and eliminate
bugs naturally. To reduce chemicals, try spot-treating with insecticide
soaps. Learn integrated pest management, the system of planting natural
repellants to unwanted bugs, while encouraging the �good bugs� like
ladybugs and praying mantises, that eat the pest population.
For areas you decide to keep in lawn, select a variety
that needs little fertilizer such as tall fescue, fine fescue or zoysia
grass, establish a healthy stand of turf by seeding between late August and
late September, and keep the grass height on the long side (three inches or
more). Allowing short clippings to remain on the lawn actually maintains
nutrients and density on an unfertilized lawn. Aerate to reduce soil
compaction. Have your soil tested at your local extension office and then
fertilize only once a year (in the fall), and only where the test has
indicated nutrient deficiencies. Keep any water-soluble fertilizer off all
paved areas where it could be washed away by rain.
Rethink �weeding.� Pour boiling water over stubborn
weeds to kill them, burn them with a propane torch, or spray full-strength
vinegar on young leaves (which works especially well on a hot day). Try to
have tolerance for the occasional dandelion or at least remove each plant
manually with a pronged �weed-popper� or trowel instead of zapping it
with a toxic chemical. As an alternative to chemical fertilizers, begin
feeding your lawn with compost or organic fertilizers so that healthy
grasses out-compete the weeds. A compost pile recycles food waste, grass
clippings, leaves and other yard waste that improve the texture and
productivity of your soil. Composting can be as simple as depositing leaves
in a corner pile to decompose, or buying a bin designed for the purpose. The
pile will �heat up,� producing microbic activity if you alternate one
part brown material (leaves, straw, or sawdust) to one or two parts green
material (fresh grass clippings, vegetable peelings, coffee grounds,
eggshells), sprinkle with water to keep it from drying out, and turn the
pile occasionally to speed up decomposition. Adding a layer of soil and some
ground limestone also aids the decomposing process.
The need for weeding is reduced greatly by using mulch,
which is also key to managing erosion. Homeowners, look for signs of erosion
(exposed roots, stones, gullies, silt build-up in low areas, deepening and
widening of drainage ditches) and address them by covering bare soil, by
sowing cover crops such as crimson clover over bare areas in winter,
directing water away from homes where the vegetation you have planted
promotes infiltration � a slowing of water to a trickle through channels
made by plants� roots. Use water-wise methods known as xeriscaping (Greek
for �dry landscaping�), which include proper timing of watering,
watering thoroughly to develop deep root systems, selecting plants that
require less water, as well as zoning irrigation and mulching to conserve
precious water. In addition, install raised beds that direct water onto
grassy or natural low-lying areas away from the house, or create a rain
garden away from the home area where water can collect during heavy rain.
Make walkways permeable by using wood chips, gravel, or even bricks set in
sand. Opportunities abound for interesting design when patios and walks of
large stones are laced with gravel or creeping groundcovers such as thyme
for sunny areas or mazus or ajuga for shade.
In planned community developments, work with management
or resident groups to create naturalized areas or create a commons where
neighbors can work together on a vegetable garden subdivided into plots for
residents. Golf courses are great places to create new habitats. Get
involved beyond your immediate property by creating educational and
recreational opportunities for the children of the community. To create a
schoolyard habitat, contact Project WILD, a national program designed to
emphasize wildlife education. Participate in the bay�s Oyster Gardening
program by building a float and receiving �seed oysters� to grow until
they are about two inches long, then releasing them to a new home on a
manmade reef, constructed by placing oyster shells on the hard bay bottom
where reefs used to exist but were destroyed by centuries of dredging and
tonging. This gets oysters off the bottom, where they can begin filtering
the bay and offering habitat to other aquatic life. Start implementing
bay-friendly principles in your home landscape and community now. In
addition, lend your volunteer support to the effort, and spread the word:
�You don�t know what you�ve got till it�s gone.�
GOOD RESOURCES