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The
train no longer stops here, but you should.
Modern-day Exmore is a town that has reinvented itself, for little remains
to indicate the impetus behind its beginnings.
The
original Exmore sprung forth in 1884 with the coming of the railroad.
The
Exmore Downtown Revitalization Project has breathed brand new life
into the heart of Exmore. Irene Boyd lets Charles Antrim of
Prestige Painting know she approves of his latest job on a
downtown store's facade. |
Prior
to the opening of the
New York
,
Pennsylvania
and Norfolk Railroad (known as the �Nip �n N�), most of the villages
on the
Eastern Shore
were located along the water�s edge. There, steamships made regular
runs, loading up with fresh produce and seafood bound for the northern
markets.
However,
as the plan to connect
Norfolk
with the northern cities took shape, it was decided the rails would be
laid parallel to the Shore�s main highway, today known as U.S. Route 13,
or
Lankford Highway
. Naturally, stations had to be located along the
rail line and, before long, towns began to develop around many of those.
One of those was Exmore Station.
Just
how the town got its name remains a mystery, although two theories remain
popular today.
One
is that Exmore was the tenth stop for the trains headed south from the
Virginia
state line, thus there were �X more� stations to go.
The
lesser-held theory, at least locally, is that the town got its name from a
village near
Devon
,
England
.
Whatever
the truth, the name stuck, and by 1948 when the town was officially
formed, Exmore was well ingrained as the name of the village.
Back
in 1889, however, the area was still mostly undeveloped. That�s when a
young man by the name of John W. Chandler, a produce broker from nearby
Willis
Wharf
, saw the opportunity to expand his business and his holdings, and began
purchasing land around Exmore Station.
Chandler
also purchased a tract of land for a homeplace, having constructed on the
site what is reputedly the first house in the town, a stately Queen
Anne-style located on what is now
Main Street
.
Now
owned by Joe and Dot Ortelli, the Chandler House is presently undergoing a
loving restoration. It is one of only two structures in the town listed in
the National Register of Historic Places. Gazing at the home through the
branches of the equally old magnolia trees, one can imagine the original
owners standing on the porch of the stately home, watching wagon�load
after wagonload of fresh produce make its way through town to the waiting
railcars.
Old
rail cars and an abandoned station house stand at the site of what
was once a bustling train station. |
Today,
while still situated amid some of the most fertile land the Commonwealth
has to offer, Exmore is no longer an agricultural center, with modern-day
marketing having replaced the strawberry auctions of old and trucking
having long ago replaced rail as the means of shipment. However,
while the train no longer stops here, reminders of that era remain, from
the abandoned station and railcars along the tracks to the restored
buildings from the town�s earliest days.
For
a while, it seemed Exmore�s fate was to be just a faded reminder of the
past; however, the hard work and dedication of recent town leaders have
led to a resurgence of business and residential interest in the town.
Utilizing a Department of Hous�ing
and Community Develop�ment
block grant, as well as Virginia Department of Transpor�tation En�hance�ment
and Rural Devel�op�ment
Community funds, downtown Ex�more
has been transformed from a timeworn remnant of its heyday to a
sparkling example of the value of preservation. New
street lighting, walkways, parking facilities and landscaping make Exmore
a most pleasant place to stroll and shop. Many stores now feature new
facades, fresh and bright, yet reminiscent of the era that gave birth to
the town. History abounds in the shops along
Main Street
, which has evolved into a virtual paradise for antique collectors from
all over.
Maggie
Marsh, proprietor of Exmore's Antiques & Craft Emporium, is
always ready to share her expertise as well as a laugh. |
A
visit to the County Way Mercantile is a step back in time to the general
stores of old. Next door, Exmore�s Antique & Craft Emporium offers
antiques, collectibles, and works by local artists and craftsmen. Toward
the southern end of
Main Street
, collectors will delight in the finds at Antique Addicts and, in season,
connoisseurs in the fresh offerings at the Exmore Farm Market. Just a tad
farther south is the famous Exmore Diner, a 1940s facility that found its
way from
New Jersey
to Exmore � by rail, of course. There, down-home cooking and
Eastern Shore
hospitality are always the specials of the day.
While
Starbucks hasn�t found its way to the Shore yet, there�s really no
need, for the aromas that waft down
Main Street
from the Yellow Duck Caf� and Bakery are incomparable. One
block over, a private revitalization project not only saved one of the
town�s largest structures, it also became its largest employer.
New
Ravenna
got its start as a cottage industry creating custom mosaics. The company
now enjoys international fame while providing employment for scores of
area residents in a converted clothing factory. Other artisans also make
their living in the area. The folks at Glass Expressions offer not only
retail sales and custom work, but also classes in the art of stained-glass
creation.
Across
the way, in the area�s largest shopping center, visitors can find even
more original creations at the Smile Gallery & Gift Shop, where a
half-dozen local artists display their unique works. And, like most
Eastern Shore
communities, the folks of Exmore depend heavily on their churches as not
merely centers of worship, but also of community.
Exmore
Baptist is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. |
Despite
its size, the Exmore area boasts a full dozen churches, ranging from
Exmore
Baptist
Church
, now celebrating its 100th year, to the relatively new Victory
Pentecostal Church of Deliverance.
Epworth
United
Methodist
Church
has one of the largest congregations in the area. It�s located in the
eastern section of the community, next door to
Occohannock
Elementary School
, one of
Northampton
County
�s award-winning educational facilities. Also located in Exmore are
Broadwater
Academy
and
Shore
Christian
Academy
, providing a choice in educational opportunities. Almost a religion in
itself is the pride many locals take in being
�Eastern Shoremen,� evidenced by a local saying that proclaims
�There�s no life west of the
Chesapeake Bay
.� These days, there is also little human
life to be found east of the shoreline; however, that was not always the
case.
Captain
Rick Kellam |
In
years gone by, the barrier islands that protect the main
Eastern Shore
peninsula from the ravages of the sea were once home to a hale-and-hardy
stock of Shore folk. One of the descendants of those folks, Capt. Rick
Kellam of Exmore, has made it his mission and vocation to ensure the
history of those island settlements is preserved. A founder of the
Eastern Shore
Barrier
Island
Center
located a few miles south of Exmore, Kellam loves to share his knowledge
of area history with all who will listen. Also an expert on local flora
and fauna, a visit with Capt. Kellam can be an education in itself.
Ships
no longer ply their trade at the wharves along the Shore. And the trains
that run through the area are too busy hauling their freight to stop at
places like Exmore. Undaunted, however, Exmore�s leaders have refused to
let the town go the way of the island settlements, and the future looks
bright for the hamlet.
In
fact, there are even plans for the Nip �n N�s descendant, the Bay
Coast Railroad, to establish an excursion service among some of the
Shore�s old railroad towns.
No
one�s saying just how many station stops there�ll be, but you can bet
one group of folks is in there lobbying for at least �X More.�