Explore the Allure of the Eastern Shore
by Cindy Farlow, Contributing Writer
The first tourist to visit the Eastern Shore of
Virginia was quite impressed. In fact, after Capt. John Smith toured the
area in 1608, he wrote, �Heaven and earth seemed never to have agreed
better to frame a place for man�s
commodious and delightful habitation.�
More than 400 years later, visitors to the area echo the
good captain�s emotions as they take in the luscious forests, fertile fields
and magnificent beaches framed between the Atlantic Ocean and the Chesapeake
Bay.
But Donna Bozza, executive director of the Eastern Shore
Tourism Commission, says it�s more than just the beauty of the area that
keeps folks coming back. �We welcome visitors to the Eastern Shore with a
pledge, �You�ll Love Our Nature,�� says Bozza. �Certainly a big part of that
is our rare natural beauty as the longest stretch of undeveloped coastline
remaining on the entire eastern seaboard. But it�s also about the warm,
welcoming nature of Shore folks you�ll meet on our country roads and
friendly beaches and in our amazing coastal villages up and down the
peninsula.�
Frequent visitor Ted Efaw of Maryland agrees. �I love
Shore living,� he says. �The slower pace and simply the family-friendly
lifestyle. I always feel like I�m coming home again, whenever I return. I
hope, one day, to live there the rest of my life.� Efaw comes �down to the
Shore� from the north, but most Virginians coming to the area do so by way
of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel (CBBT), which
connects the peninsula to the rest of the Commonwealth.
Approaching the Shore from the south, one begins to
understand why so many visitors make the peninsula an annual vacation
destination�and the passion local folks have for their home. The view from
the high rise of the CBBT offers the first glimpse of pristine beaches, the
teeming wildlife and unrivaled recreational opportunities.
Those opportunities begin almost immediately at the
southern tip of the Shore at the Eastern Shore of Virginia
Wildlife Refuge.
A WILDLIFE
WATCHER�S PARADISE
Comprised of well over 1,000 acres, the refuge is
recognized as one of the most important stopovers for the migratory bird
population in the eastern United States. While the Annual Eastern Shore
Birding and Wildlife festival draws hundreds of spectators during the fall
migration, the refuge also provides daily opportunities for wildlife
observation, photography and education. Hunting and boating are also
available at the refuge, located on what locals refer to as �the seaside� of
the Shore.
About three miles �up the road� from the refuge on �the
bayside� is Kiptopeke State Park. Offering recreational access to the
Chesapeake Bay, Kiptopeke also has accommodations for camping, an RV park,
lodges and even a yurt. Swimming, boating, fishing, and wildlife and biking
trails are all featured here.
Leaving Kiptopeke, travelers headed north up the
70-mile-long Virginia peninsula should consider a side trip to the bayside
town of Cape Charles. Here another beautiful Chesapeake Bay beach awaits
visitors, while charming shops and restaurants abound. Victorian homes on
tree-lined streets grace the town�s historic district and a deep-water
harbor welcomes all types of watercraft from the local crabbers� scows to
visiting tall ships.
Adjacent to town is Bay Creek, a 1,700-acre community
offering upscale homes and vacation rentals, a marina, restaurants, shops
and two signature golf courses designed by Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus.
Heading back to U.S. Route 13, the Shore�s major
thoroughfare, travelers will soon find themselves
at the turnoff into Eastville. Best known as the home of the country�s
oldest continuous court records, dating from 1632, Eastville also boasts
wonderfully preserved Colonial architecture. The old clerks� office and
courthouse date from 1731 and was the site of the public reading of the
Declaration of Independence in August of 1779.
Heading north once again, travelers soon come to the tiny
village of Machipongo, home of the Barrier Islands Center on Virginia�s
Eastern Shore. Here visitors can tour the Barrier Island Museum and learn
about days gone by when the Shore�s now barren barrier islands were bustling
communities. A visit to the Almshouse also sheds light on the past, bringing
into focus just what it was like to grow up poor in rural 19th-century
America.
A few more miles up the road and motorists enter
Accomack, the northern of the Shore�s two counties. As in Northampton,
agriculture and the ever growing aquaculture
industries are the mainstays of the economy. Among the agricultural
enterprises are a growing number of vineyards and the Shore is fast becoming
known for some of the state�s finest wines.
Winery tours offering a look at the operations as well as
tastings have become popular with locals and tourists alike.
When it comes to culinary delights, however, nothing can upstage the
Shore�s seafood. Restaurants up and down the Shore offer the freshest in
fish, crabs, clams and oysters. While restaurant dining is always a
delight, many visitors to the Shore come in quest of gathering their
own delicacies. Whether trailering their own craft or taking advantage of
the numerous charter services, anglers enjoy world-class ocean fishing out
of Wachapreague, known as �The Flounder
Capital of the World.� For Chesapeake trolling,
the Onancock Wharf offers excellent facilities. Whether choosing
Wachapreague�s seaside or Onancock�s bayside, waterfront dining is available
for those not up to cleaning their day�s catch.
A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE
For a unique bayside experience, visitors should time
their arrival in Onancock to catch the ferry to Tangier Island. Discovered
by that same first visitor to the Shore, Capt. John Smith, Tangier is
located 12 miles west of
Onancock, smack in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay. Here the 600 or
so residents do without many of life�s so-called conveniences. They walk or
cycle about the island, or take a golf cart. They work hard, gathering a
living from the water. They take care of each other and they cherish
their heritage. Natives of the island speak a distinct Elizabethan dialect
of English that has attracted linguists nationwide and charms all who visit.
Visitors are most welcome and will find lovely
accommodations and some of the best cooking this side of heaven. The Tangier
History Museum is a must�but so is timing one�s visit to catch a boat back
to the �mainland.� While Tangier stays close to its heritage, other areas of
the Shore have literally blasted into the 21st
century. NASA�s Wallops Island Flight Facility has become one of the federal
agency�s most active locations. As NASA�s primary facility for suborbital
research, Wallops is the site for numerous rocket launches. While those
launches are the most attention-getting of the activities, much more is
continuously taking place at the sprawling center. More than 1,000
scientists, researchers, technicians and support staff are involved in the
work there. Visitors are able to learn more about Wallops at the facility�s
Visitors Center, located between
Route 13 and the island of Chincoteague.
As might be expected, the spokesperson for Chincoteague
claims that island should be the ultimate destination of any visit to the
Shore. �It has all the ingredients of a perfect
vacation,� says Suzanne Taylor, executive director of the
Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce. �There�s a pristine Atlantic Ocean beach.
We have any type of accommodation from B&Bs, camping, rental homes and
cottages to motels and inns, offering all of the amenities one could dream
of. We have shops, museums, ice cream parlors, seafood restaurants, eco
tours, fishing, crabbing, birding, hiking, bike riding and of course the
famous Chincoteague ponies!� Taylor also notes that many cultural
events are scheduled throughout the year, including a summer cinema series
and an acoustic music series.
SEASHORE SUPERLATIVE
The Atlantic Ocean beach to which Taylor refers is
Assateague National Seashore. Considered one of the best public beaches on
the East Coast, Assateague is also a wildlife paradise, a surf fisherman�s
dream and a perfect venue for cyclers. A trip to the island is not complete
without a stop at the historic Assateague Lighthouse, in operation since
1867. There�s no evidence that Captain John Smith ever made it as far north
as Assateague in his explorations of the Shore. But if he had, he most
likely would have had even more to say in his notes. Still, his brief �Tour
of the Shore� paved the way for many others fortunate enough to stumble upon
this place of �commodious and delightful habitation� where, as Bozza
promises, �You�ll love our nature.�