During the year 2000, we’re making our way around Virginia, each issue visiting a small town and meeting some of the folks who make up the heart of electric co-op country. On this year’s eighth stop, we’ll be...

With a few tweaks, the brochure for the town of Smithfield says it best — "In a world where we are buffeted with change, where progress seems to be clearing land to build another parking lot — there is a corner where tradition means stability, and where change occurs slowly, thoughtfully. In Smithfield, you are constantly reminded of your link to the past. Through its history, its homes, its landmarks, and especially its food."

From the ham smokehouses in this little Virginia town on the Pagan River comes one of the world’s unique gourmet delicacies. The tradition goes back three centuries to the early days of the newly formed Colony of Virginia. The settlers had prized the old razorback hog and understood the art of curing hams and bacon as a source of great eating. The succulent, amber, dry-cured hams made from peanut-fed hogs started a tradition that would make Smithfield, Virginia, famous worldwide.

Today, Smithfield is still known for its prized hams. By law, in order to be called a "Smithfield Ham," the piece of meat in question must be cured within the town limits of Smithfield. Smithfield Foods, a corporate giant and the leading producer of Smithfield hams and other meat products, is located within the small town of Smithfield.

The "great eating" tradition continues at the town’s most enduring haven of hospitality, the elegantly appointed, original Smithfield Inn and Tavern. The inn is still providing lodging and serving meals in the Southern and Smithfield tradition. Recently voted "Best Plate in Virginia" by USA Today, The Smithfield Inn and Tavern is proud to feature classic wafer-thin slices of Smithfield ham on Southern-style biscuits.

But today’s Smithfield offers much more than flavorful ham. Its history and well-preserved historic homes are an additional beacon to visitors and its hospitality has turned many visitors into residents. Unlike many historic towns, Smithfield has known repeated periods of prosperity which has resulted in a charmingly eclectic mix of handsome colonial, stately federal, and elaborate Victorian homes. The Smithfield historic district, which is both a Virginia Historic Landmark and on the National Historic Register, is a fashionable address for locals.

According to Diane Howard, director of tourism for Smithfield and Isle of Wight County, "Tourism has become a real growth industry in our area. Smithfield has become a mecca for tourists looking for an escape from the hustle and bustle of city and suburban life with its food, its history, its homes, its attractions and of course, its recreational possibilities."

A River Town from Way Back

From its very beginning, Smithfield has been a river town, and its whole life and growth have been conditioned by the river. Commerce and trade were born on the banks of the Pagan, and nurtured by the men and women whose lives and lifestyles depended on it. It was this waterway which first attracted merchants and made it one of Colonial Virginia’s busiest and most prosperous communities. Today, trade continues on the water at one of Smithfield’s best-known landmarks, Smithfield Station.

Smithfield Station, perched on the banks of the Pagan River, is a unique waterfront inn, restaurant and marina built in the spirit of a coastal life guard station. This popular watering hole is a gathering place for locals and a popular place to tie up on the weekends to sample delicious seafood and pork specialties. The hotel is a favorite romantic getaway spot and even has its own lighthouse that you can spend the night in!

But if you really want a slice of life in Smithfield, you must spend some time with the gang at The Twins Restaurant. The "boys" start gathering in the wee hours of the morning to play the "coffee game," get the latest crop reports, or solve the country’s latest economic crisis. The "ladies" of Smithfield visit The Twins at a much more respectable hour of the morning! Or, join Smithfield kids of all ages for a scoop of sweet ice cream from the Smithfield Ice Cream Parlor. And, the good eats are not just found in Old Town. Plenty of locals "in the know" swear by Robert Cox at the Battery Park Grill, Ken Brown at Ken’s Bar BQ, and Charlie Webb at C.W. Cowlings for American chow and Anna’s Ristorante when in the mood for something a little spicier!

Attractions Abound

Attractions abound in Smithfield — from the visitor’s center itself, which is housed in the Old Courthouse of 1750, to the Isle of Wight Museum, which includes the history of the world-famous Smithfield hams, Indian artifacts, Civil War relics, and fossils from the James River — to Fort Boykin Historic Park (a historic fort that has been involved in every major campaign fought on American soil) and historic St. Luke’s Shrine, the nation’s oldest existing Gothic Church (1632) of English foundation in America.

The first place to begin any visit to Smithfield is at the Isle of Wight Tourism Bureau, currently located in the Old Courthouse on Main Street. Reach them by phone at (757) 357-5182 or (800) 365-9339 or visit their Web site at www.smithfield-virginia.com. The friendly folks there can give you maps for the self-guided historic walking tour, brochures on the major area attractions and recommendations for shopping and dining. Don’t miss the video! You’ll be able to get the flavor of the area by enjoying this 10-minute presentation. They are open daily.

Special events abound in Smithfield. Every Memorial Day weekend the town hosts the Smithfield Olden Days Festival. Take a step back in time for this weekend-long event featuring carriage rides in the historic district, arts and crafts, antiques, antique and vintage cars, concerts, a ghost walk, special children’s activities and a closing outdoor concert in the natural amphitheater on the grounds of Windsor Castle.

Summer brings the annual Friday Night Summer Concert Series in Times Square (the aptly named gazebo stage at the Smithfield Times newspaper office on Main Street)! This series offers something for everyone with big band concerts, bluegrass, folk music, military bands, gospel, teen night, and a variety show by the local theater troupe.

Don’t miss the Isle of Wight County Fair the 3rd weekend in September (Thursday through Sunday). Attractions at this popular family-oriented event include a carnival, music, gas and steam engines, children’s activities, mule pulls, livestock and lots of homemade items. For more info contact: Isle of Wight Parks & Recreation, (757) 357-2291.

The holiday season is magical in Smithfield and features a multitude of special seasonal events including a tree lighting, boat lighting on the Pagan River, Historic District Decorating contest, and much more! Call the Isle of Wight Tourism Bureau for specific dates and times.

Other events throughout the year include: art shows and exhibits sponsored by The Collage Arts Center: (757) 357-7707; The Smithfield Little Theater presentation of three show runs per year. (The first show, generally a musical, runs the first three weekends in November. The second show runs the last weekend in February and the first two weekends in March and the third show runs the first three weekends in May.) Box office: (757) 357-7338; Monthly antique auctions held the first Wednesday of every month by local auctioneer and funny man, Jim Abeicht, at the Smithfield Antique Center (757) 365-0223.